A MINE OF MEMORIES

All islands have a peculiar fascination, and Sardinia is no exception. Lying a little less than 200km from the Italian mainland and at same distance from the Tunisian coast, it is in the words of D.H. Lawrence, “lost between Europe and Africa and belonging to nowhere”. With its own language and distinct customs, the island boasts a fiercely independent character while remaining unmistakably and exuberantly Italian.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE

The route (moderate to difficult) covers the savage and remote south west corner of Sardinia, far removed from the busy playboy resorts of the north east. The terrain is rugged in parts, with high cliffs ascending from the coast, interspersed with long sandy beaches, grass-covered dunes - and breathtaking views. Two days are quite hard and hilly cycling. The prevailing wind blows from the north west - our direction also, though it is unlikely it will always be in your back.

Day 1 San Salvatore Sinis.
Arrival in Sardinia. On arrival collect notes and bikes. Our hotel is a small country estate on the Sinis peninsula, between Oristano and the ruins of Tharros. Overnight.

Day 2 San Salvatore Sinis (52 km).
An easy first day, cycling the flat coastal plains of the Sinis wetlands. The salt ponds around the gulf are home to thousands of pink flamingo in season and a wealth of other birdlife, and you may see locals fishing for mullet or bass from traditional grass fassone boats. Circling the lake to Riola Sardo you return to the coast at Mari Ermi, and the spectacular white quartz beach of Is Arutas. A short trip down the peninsula to San Giovanni Sinis brings you to the Phoenician ruins of Tharros, with a history of inhabitation stretching back almost 2,500 years. Wine production here is mainly sherry-like vernaccia, and you may be able to visit a cellar on the way.

Day 3 San Salvatore Sinis-Arbus (46 km).
To avoid the boring suburbs of Oristano we transfer by road to Arborea, to cycle to Piscinas, on the Costa Verde. It is a flat 8 miles across reclaimed farmland to the colourful fishing village of Marceddì. Rice, soft fruit and vegetables are grown for the cucinas of Sardinia. From Marceddì it becomes more undulating, with low hills and huge sand dunes skirting the coast.

Day 4 Arbus-Nebida (49 km)
The toughest day, but some glorious scenery to compensate! You start by flying down hill (but uphill sections also!) from Arbus to the river Mannu, and the start of the miles of golden beaches of Portixeddu. To the left is the massif of Monte Linas, with the Costa Verde and erica covered sand dunes away on your right. After the unfortunately named mining town of Buggerru and the Pranu Sartu plateau is the charming Cala Domestica bay. Inland, the Marganai mountain group rises to almost 3,500 feet. After the 400 foot limestone cliffs of Pan di Zucchero, you arrive to Nebida, another old mining hamlet.

Day 5 Nebida-Calasetta (43 km)
A beautiful descent to Fontanamare followed by an undulating coastal ride to Portoscuso. Here, board the local ferry to Carloforte on Isola di San Pietro. There is time for a short itinerary around the island, exploring sandy coves and dramatic rocky headlands, tiny hamlets before rejoining the ferry to continue to equally unspoilt Sant' Antioco. Note that it is not possible to book the ferry in advance, and you will need to pay on arrival.

Day 6 Calasetta-S.Anna Arresi (43 km)
A morning to laze by the pool or explore the coast nearby, or for a short cycle ride around the island with its wealth of coves and beaches, green meadows (or golden in the summer) and little villages. After a visit to Sant’Antioco, cross back to the mainland, to visit the Pisan sanctuary at Tratalias - one of the most important monuments from the Romanesque period. From here you follow the shoreline of lake Monte Pranu and through the rolling plains of Sulcis. Once again, rugged mountains rise up to your left, to around 4,000 ft. Just before the village of Sant' Anna Arresi you reach your hotel, well sited overlooking the emerald green waters of the Golfo di Palmas. Nearby are the bright white beaches of Porto Pino, backed by dunes and Aleppo pine woods.

Day 7 S.Anna Arresi-Pula (60 km)
The longest day by distance, but gentle countryside across the rugged coastal plains of the Costa del Sud. This is a remote, wild and beautiful region of Mediterranean bush and coastal pools, gleaming white beaches and imposing cliffs. Cape Malfatano and Cala Piscinnì each boast a 16th C tower, while at Capo Teulada the spectacular cliffs rise more than 700 feet from a translucent sea. A short detour will take you to the beautiful beach of Su Giudeu in Chia, while at Pula is the important Phoenician city of Nora. Your last night is at the luxurious oasis of i Giardini di Alice, once a thoroughbred farm and now a lovely hotel complex in its own 25 acre park.

Day 8 Pula
Tour ends after breakfast.